Day 47 - Gaspe to Perce

Gaspe to Perce
86 km, sunny
Windy – 20-25 km, in my face

Happy independence Day to the (I believe) only American reading this – the sweet Vicky.

Nice little pleasant day. I knew it was going to be an easy day, so I slept a bit this morning, and visited the town before I headed out.

Last night – I walked into town (35 minutes, nice little uphill for a bit, then a long downhill). Quiet town at 10 pm. I am not used to walking. With my feet being wet for half of the day, and the walking, I started blistering at the ball of one foot. I was quite thirsty, probably from the tons of fries I had just a few hours before. The beer of choice for the tent was (I believe from Unibroue) Le cap d'Espoir (une blanche).

The morning started alright. I noticed I had a rear flat when I was in the tent, so I fixed it before heading out. I went to the Jacques Cartier Museum first, where I would not see the original cross he erected in 1584 or something (rotten, and no one knows the exact location). But, I did get to read up on it from the book I had, and get a story or two from the museum girl. The dude came here because something was broken on his ship. This trip, he was nice to the natives. On his second trip, the book I have says he kidnapped the chief and 9 other Indians. Nice. Quite civilized. I also checked out the Jacques Cartier church, I believe it is the first one built out of wood.

I left town, and did a little detour to visit a spot along the bay. Nice uphill for the first half, against the wind, and rough roads (Quebec style). Then, when things were nicer with the winds (behind me for the last 3 k of that 8 k detour), the pavement was beautiful with a nice shoulder. Then, for the rest of the trip, I would have a wind in my face. Oh well.

With almost 25-30 k left, on the other side of the bay, I saw the Rocher-Perce. Huge, and quite nice. The last 7 k were a surprise. I had to climb over some hills – 12% at first, then a measly 11% (all 1 km long or more), then a quieter 9%, and another 11 %. Little ones. The reward was a downhill at 17%, where I had to use the brakes (speed of 78 k/h). Imagine if it was all open. Oh, yesterday with one of the downhills, I did a Dukes of Hazard – launched off a bump in the road, got some air, and landed front wheel first. Sure, it might of only been 1-2 inches, but I felt some air. Freaky.

The town is quite lovely, very touristy. Everyone is friendly. I am staying at a youth hostel, 20 bucks (total) a night. I dumped my bike, and will walk for the next day and a half. I duct-taped my foot to prevent the blister from getting worse.

The day tomorrow is getting slowly booked-up. I have a kayak tour around the rock in the morning, followed by lunch somewhere, then a boat cruise in the early afternoon. The latter goes around the Rocher-Perce, then drops me off on Ile Bonaventure for a hike. I got news of a micro-brewery in the neighbouring town, so I might have to go there for a brew or two. There's two restaurants I want to have supper tomorrow night. One has lobster cooked in champagne, and the other has plates that live up to it's name: Gargantua. I read that watching the rock at either sunrise or sunset is quite beautiful. Sunrise is at 4:20 am (ouch, probably wont happen), and sunset is at 20h21. We'll see how I can make all things work. I might have to eat two suppers tomorrow. I'll see what I can do for you guys.

On a somber note, did you hear about the two cross Canada cyclists that got killed in Manitoba? Two different cyclists on different days informed me of it. Apparently, a family (including two kids) and their uncle were riding across the country to raise funds for diabetes or something. A 27 year-old driver hit the father and uncle, and they didn't make it. I will look for news on it, as I am currious on what happened. But, it's a risk we all take. Quite frankly, my odds of getting hit by a car while biking are probably the same as any of us getting hit by a car while crossing the street. Dont worry, I'll be vigilant. I've got the picture of pepere with me, that'll be for more safety.

Food tonight consisted of a sea-food shish-kabob, and fries (served with ketchup and mayonnaise). I always enjoy the latter. Oh, Mario, right actor, wrong movie. I do know what scene you are talking about from the Whole 10 yards (he flips out at the waitress so she doesn't bring him mayo with his fries). Did you notice Matthiew Perry (or whatever his name is, from Friends) has a Senator's t-shirt in that movie? Correct movie where the quote is from: Pulp Fiction.

Back to food. The beer was a Belle Geulle Rousse. For desert, which was more the highlight of the meal, was an open-faced chocolate and pear pie. Tasty. I should try to make that at home.

I am currently in a little coffee shop, having an espresso viennois (has a espresso ice cream scoop in it), with a sugar pie. I might go for another little bight to eat tonight to sample more stuff from the area, and bring back a beer or two to the hostel.

Ran into a guy at the hostel that has biked across Canada when he retired. Andry-Richard is now doing the Gaspe region (from Quebec) for the 14th time. He is 73 right now. Amazing fellow to ride those hills. You guys have to see this area, you'd understand why someone would want to come back here over and over.

Well, I'll call it an entry. Enjoy your day.

p2